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SILVER In the 18th and 19th century silver settings were considered
better than gold, to enhance the brilliance of diamonds.It was considered
to display a white stone within a white metal setting was better
than a yellow setting which might draw a yellow light into the stone.
Settings were much heavier during this period with a tendency to enclose the
sides and underneath the stone.
Early silver was imported from Bolivia, Chile, Mexico,
and Peru.
Open back settings were introduced in 1800, which allowed light to penetrate
from the back of the stone,with a simple ring of silver set around the girdle
of the stone.
In1860 in West Nevada USA ,the Comstock lode of silver was discovered ,this
led to a dramatic increase of silver jewellery production.
A lot of this silver jewellery was mass produced and so became much more affordable
as there were fewer labour costs involved.
Silver filigree is the use of silver wire, widely used throughout the ages
in the intricate production of jewellery. Because the wire is so malleable
it could take the form of swirls, circles, wavy lines and straight lines, thus
allowing the form of animals, birds, flowers and butterflies to emerge in the
form of jewellery.
It is difficult to put a date on filigree pieces as it is a technique used
in Europe for centuries.
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Platinum became fashionable in the 1920s
and 30s, although it had been discovered much earlier by Spanish settlers
in South America, they called it Plata which is their word for silver.
It was very rare and difficult to melt, due to the high temperature recquired
and therefore seldom used in jewellery manufacture.
In 1805 The Prince of Wales purchased a watch chain made
of Platina but it was not until 1870 that it was recorded as a strong
setting for diamonds. There are very few early examples of platinum
jewellery as it was so difficult to work with that most jewellers did
not attempt to use it.
It was not used widely as a setting until 1900
Many of Cartiers' early
20th century pieces were set in platinum.
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